A Gastropub on Wheels

Many of us got our introduction to food trucks in college as places to go (after too many pitchers of beer) to stave off both late-night hunger and the ensuing next-morning hangover. My favorite at Rutgers was the aptly named Greasy Tony’s, whose Garbage Can Burger was exactly what the name implies. 

Fast-forward 40 years and times have very much changed. Food trucks have become crucibles of culinary innovation. Sous chefs in major cities use them as steppingstones, generating followers before moving on to expensive brick-and-mortar restaurants. 

When the Napa Valley Register asked that I review a food truck, I had three in mind. But based on foodie word of mouth, my top choice was the Clif Family Bruschetteria. 

Parked next to the Clif Family tasting room in St. Helena, it has garnered both a gustatory reputation and loyal lunch following. The food is locally sourced farm-to-table, and the mantra of the chef is: grown here, made here. The menu selection includes salads, sides, mains and desserts. We decided to sample all four. 

The best-selling item on the menu is the firecracker salad, made with kale, cabbage, pickled carrots and orange slices, dressed with Meyer lemon-miso and spicy curry seeds. I understand the appeal. It’s light, fresh, sweet-and-spicy, with enough curry and heat to make it interesting. I’m not the biggest kale fan, so saying I would order this again is no faint praise. 

For sides we had the polenta tots and Brussels sprouts. The tots are a must-order! The center is lush and creamy, with a mix of fontina/mozzarella/Parmesan cheeses, covered in a fried, crusty-brown shell. The homemade buttermilk ranch dipping sauce has a hint of lime. The crunchy/creamy/cheesy/hint-of-lime gestalt came together perfectly. It was a delight to eat. 

Not to be outdone, the Brussels sprouts were perfectly caramelized and tender, covered in abundant almonds and pistachios. The sweet-and-sour honey dressing pooled in the bottom of the bowl. At first Cody complained, until I suggested he eat from the bottom, allowing the sprouts to soak up the dressing. His sentiment changed immediately. Whether by intention or happy accident, the sprouts are cooked in a way that allows them to sponge up the sauce, and that’s the way to enjoy this dish. 

Next came the funghi bruschetta. The grilled, bready crust was like sourdough, but with the depth of a whole grain. It turned out to be a special sourdough bread provided by Model Bakery. Alas for proprietary recipes, because I would bring a loaf of this home in a heartbeat! The array of wild mushrooms was plentiful and earthy, with ricotta and melted fontina that covered but didn’t overwhelm. The chives provided a nice accent of both color and flavor. 

For our main course, we had the signature Nashville chicken sandwich. Fair warning, this is impossible to get your mouth around and is an unavoidably messy eat! The double-stacked fried chicken is moist, salty and crispy, with a sauce that’s hot but not overwhelming (a lean version of a Buffalo hot sauce). What really heightened the flavor was the pimento cheese, which brought with it a rich pepperiness and depth. The house-made brioche bun was denser that a traditional brioche and not as buttery, which suited the sandwich. Grilled, it brought a burnt savoriness. 

All of this sat atop a (perhaps too) generous helping of buttermilk slaw. Given the heat, the milky slaw is a good complement, but as I write this I’m still digging some of the buttermilk out of my beard. If you’re in anything but a T-shirt, either eat this leaning forward or bring a bib! 

Cody ordered the seasonal mustard celebration brat. The local sausage is seared, then covered with pickled mustard greens, a mild Dijon and crispy radish slices. The house-made bun was firm and pretzelly. The mustard kraut brought a bitterness that intensified the umami of the overall dish. A pity we are post-Super Bowl, because this would have been perfect paired with a strong lager or ale in front of a widescreen TV. 

We ordered altogether too much food (half brought home in a doggie bag), but we decided to power through to dessert. The coffee malva is a South African bread pudding. It was rich and moist and gooey, drizzled in caramel and covered in whipped cream. There was a tropical fruit flavor that I first thought to be banana, but was in fact persimmon (combined with the coffee it has a banana-like taste). It is worth saving room for. 

We finished with the chocolate budino, rationalizing that the small portion stopped it from being excessive. Though billed as a sort of pot-de-crème, it is far denser, and the flavor is chocolate, chocolate, chocolate and more chocolate, which lingers forever on the palate. It’s velvety and sprinkled with Cabernet salt it is intense, so be prepared. 

Prices are low for a Napa lunch. Salads are $11 (small) and $16 (large). Sides are $9 to $12 (with a full order of chicken wings at $15). Bruschetta are $16-18; sandwiches are $13.50 for the bratwurst and $19 for the chicken. Desserts are $4 to $7.50. If you’re frugal, you can easily have an excellent lunch for $20. 

Wednesdays are Street Food Day, featuring dishes from a different country each week. If you time it right, you can order your food and then enjoy it with a glass of wine from the tasting room happy hour, which runs 4 to 7 p.m. ($10 pours). 

The world evolves. What was once the purview of late-night collegiate binge drinkers is now a midday haute cuisine gastropub on wheels. Fresh local ingredients in the hands of a James Beard-level chef make for an affordable afternoon culinary experience. 

But I wouldn’t wait. Food this good can’t help but lead to another Napa destination restaurant. When it opens, get there early because I’ll be at the head of the line! 

The Clif Family Bruschetteria food truck is located at 1284 Vidovich Ave., just off Highway 29/128 in St. Helena next to the Clif Family tasting room. There’s ample parking and covered outdoor seating. For more information, visit cliffamilyfoodtruck.com.